With Croatia sets to go on to the green list, there are quite some quiet, crowd-free islands and beaches for a post-covid escape.
Croatia is enriched with places where things move at a less hurried pace, where Croatian life can be savored, where you get a flavor of what the Dalmatians call Fjaka, which means "the art of doing nothing." These islands and mainland destinations are what you want in a post-lockdown escape: peace, beauty, and the chance to discover why Croatia is such an enticing country.
One of the Croatian spots is Zlarin. It’s hard to move at a fast pace on this island in the Šibenik archipelago – it has banned cars, so you’ll have to walk or cycle. As the island is only eight square kilometers, that’s not much of a trial. A half-hour ferry ride from the city of Šibenik takes you to the island’s only village. Not only is Zlarin covered in greenery, but it stepped up green credentials two years ago by becoming the first island in Croatia to ban single-use plastics.
Zlarin was once known for its coral diving, which you can tell from its coral shops and a tiny coral museum that’s open in the summer. Smothered in cypress, olive, almond, and fig trees, it is a place for hiking and kayaking to secluded beaches, perhaps trekking up to its highest point, Klepac, at 169 meters, and taking in views of Velebit mountain.
Another spot which can be visited in Croatia is Primosten. On the coast road between Split and Šibenik – but bypassed by an inland motorway – Primošten has one of Croatia’s most photogenic old towns, on its own small island. The jumble of medieval houses is connected to the mainland via a causeway, while a neighboring promontory covered in pines is home to the area’s best beaches.
While wandering through the stepped streets of the old town, head uphill to the 15th-century church of Sveti Juraj (St George) and take in the views. The little promontory that sticks out like a thumb is ringed by the pine-backed beaches of Raduča – the smaller of which has views of the old town. Endless vineyards cover much of the landscape – it is home to the indigenous and full-bodied babić grape. Call Prgin Winery and pop in for a tasting. In spite of Primošten’s laid-back feel, the municipality is home to one of Dalmatia’s biggest nightclubs, Aurora, just a few miles away from the old town.
Fazana is also one of the top attractions of Croatia. Though it is regarded as a small port, it is on Istria’s southwestern coast, isn’t exactly off the tourist radar – it’s the departure point for boat trips to the Brijuni Islands national park. But with Istria’s big-hitters Pula and Rovinj only 15 and 30 minutes away respectively, family-friendly Fažana tends to get overlooked. In this delightful fishing port, you can get a more relaxed taste of Istria.
Fažana’s appeal is its mellow atmosphere and long, pebbly beaches. Its medieval center is heralded by the 15th-century church of Saints Cosmas and Damian, and look out for the portico-fronted 14th-century Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. A boat trip to the Brijuni Islands (only 15 minutes) is a must. More than a dozen islands form the archipelago, but excursions go to Veli Brijun, the former summer playground of Tito – and, before him, the Habsburgs and the Romans.
Other attractions of Croatia are Dugi Otok, Murter, Cres, Pelješac peninsula,Nin, Kopački Rit and so on.
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